| South Americans often refer to Uruguay, that | | | | cost. Taxis must have the table displayed in the |
| small country sandwiched between giants | | | | passenger compartment. If one doesn't, you |
| Argentina and Brazil, as the "first world of the | | | | might want to wait for one that does. A typical |
| third world". I don't share that opinion as you can | | | | medium distance fare, say from downtown to |
| plainly see there's still far too many people living in | | | | Pocitos, would be around 5 dollars (100 pesos). |
| extreme poverty in this country, but it is, de | | | | Fares are about 25% higher at night (different |
| facto, the most stable democracy on this | | | | table). |
| continent. | | | | Public Transportation: There's no subway, just |
| Just last week I made my way from Santa Fe, | | | | buses, which are modern and cheap: fare is 17 |
| Argentina, to Montevideo, Uruguay's capital and | | | | pesos. |
| biggest city. I had visited Uruguay before, a few | | | | Cheap hotels: There's plenty of hostels, but if you |
| years earlier, but I had limited myself to Punta del | | | | want a room with private bath, it's more |
| Este, the country's premier vacation destination, | | | | economical to stay at a hotel downtown, for |
| and Colonia, a well-preserved colonial city. | | | | rates as low as 45 USD per night. |
| Travelers often overlook Montevideo as it's not a | | | | Getting there: Direct, long distance flights to |
| very touristic city, but it appears to be on the | | | | Montevideo are a rarity. Most travelers prefer to |
| verge of a renaissance, finally recognizing the | | | | combine a visit to Uruguay with Argentina, |
| potential of its vast historic district, the "ciudad | | | | typically crossing the river Plate from Buenos |
| vieja", in the port area. Countless old buildings are | | | | Aires in Buquebus, the high speed ferry service |
| being renovated and new pedestrian malls are | | | | (about 90 dollars per person) if you book early. |
| being created. Not too long in the future, this part | | | | ATMs: More like Brazil, where few ATMs support |
| of town could become as popular as Buenos | | | | foreign debit cards. If your provider's logo doesn't |
| Aires' fabled San Telmo. | | | | appear on the list (say Cirrus,Plus or Maestro), find |
| For now, Montevideo's downtown is rather gritty, | | | | another machine. ATMs typically dispense |
| almost every building and monument suffering the | | | | Uruguayan pesos and dollars. |
| indignity of ugly graffiti, and its streets are | | | | Internet: Most restaurants have free wi-fi, and do |
| populated by a large number of beggars. The | | | | most hotels and hostels. |
| avenida 18 de Julio, the main commercial street, | | | | International calls: There are a few calling centers, |
| reminds me of avenida Santa Fe in Buenos Aires. | | | | but be forewarned that long distance calls are |
| Its sidewalks are bustling with activity during the | | | | very expensive, as are calls to local cell phones. |
| day, but as soon as night falls, it transforms into a | | | | You might want to use Internet telephony, say |
| lifeless landscape. Locals warn you not to walk the | | | | Skype, if the wi-fi bandwidth is good enough |
| streets at night, but that's good advice anywhere | | | | where you connect. |
| in Latin America, not just here. | | | | Apartment rentals: If you're planning to live here, |
| While Montevideo may at first appear as a kind of | | | | the best areas are along the Rambla, from |
| mini Buenos Aires, comparisons quickly end when | | | | Pocitos to Carrasco, the latter being far more |
| you discover it has a large number of white sand | | | | expensive. Rents are higher than in many similar |
| beaches stretching eastward from just outside | | | | sized North American cities. A very ordinary one |
| the port at Pocitos, as well as a coastal walkway | | | | bedroom apartment would rent for 500 dollars, |
| that seems to go on forever. The salty water | | | | while a 2 bedroom would set you back about 700 |
| lapping the shore here is milky brown, as it's still | | | | USD a month. Rents are almost always quoted in |
| the river Plate (rio Plata) loaded with mud and | | | | dollars and sometimes even paid in that currency. |
| sediment from sources deep inside the South | | | | Shared costs, such as heat and water and condo |
| America, but local authorities certify that its safe | | | | fees are typically charged separately. Unlike |
| to bathe. With its long rows of apartment buildings | | | | Argentina, you don't require guarantors, just |
| facing the Rambla (the coastal road), some | | | | documents proving you have sufficient income |
| beaches are reminiscent of Rio de Janeiro's | | | | (bank statements, letter from employer), but you |
| Copacabana, minus the mountains. Curiously, | | | | have to post a monetary guarantee equal to five |
| there's virtually no shops or restaurants along the | | | | months' rent. These funds are placed in a special |
| Rambla. You'll find those usually a couple of blocks | | | | bank account which both you and the owner |
| in. | | | | must sign for to withdraw funds from at the end |
| One of the aspects of Montevideo, and Uruguay | | | | of the lease. Rentals usually include no appliances |
| in general, that can be considered "first world" are | | | | at all except a small water heater. A few |
| its prices. Things are more expensive here when | | | | furnished apartments can be had, but for more |
| compared to other south American nations, and | | | | money. |
| even more so if you rely on the US dollar, which | | | | Tipping: Most Uruguayans aren't good tippers, but |
| has fallen from 24 Pesos per dollar to just over | | | | as a foreigner you should remember that people |
| 19 in the last year. Wages, however, are only | | | | here earn only a fraction of what they would in |
| slightly higher than in other South American | | | | the first world (the real one), and be more |
| countries. | | | | generous! |
| Quick Facts: | | | | Tourist Traps: There really isn't any, but prices do |
| Language: Castilian Spanish, virtually identical to | | | | seem excessively high in the port market |
| that of Argentina. | | | | (mercado del puerto), since Anthony Bourdain |
| Electricity: 220 volts. 2 round peg sockets or 2 | | | | featured its eateries on his TV show. |
| slanted plus 1 vertical (same as Argentina). | | | | Entertainment: No specific entertainment area, |
| Meals: Expect to spend at least 200 pesos (10 | | | | although there's a few discotheques in Pocitos and |
| USD) per person for an ordinary meal. Cuisine is | | | | a handful of bar/restaurants that stay open at |
| almost identical to Argentina's. The national dish is | | | | night on the Sarandi pedestrian mall. Best way to |
| the "chivito", which can be as simple as a piece of | | | | find live entertainment venues is via the local |
| steak or as crazy as a huge stack of wildly | | | | newspapers. Carnival period lasts virtually all of |
| different items inside a hamburger bun. | | | | February. Movies are generally subtitled rather |
| Taxis: taxi meters don't display the fare, but | | | | than dubbed. Matinees cost about 5 USD per |
| rather a number that has to be looked-up in a | | | | ticket. There's an opera near Independence |
| table ("tabla de tarifas") in order to determine the | | | | Square, the Solis theater. |